Help Centre

Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end.

Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.

Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.

Make sure that you have the drivers installed:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+09:+Firmware/53?lang=en#s659

When installing the driver make sure you are running as administrator and can make the necessary changes to your PC.

This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here: 

http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_EXE.html

If the above does not work:

1. Unplug the end stops from the board and try connecting again.

2. Unplug all connections to the board, including the stepper drivers and try the connection again.

3. Try resetting (the red button on the centre of the board) with everything removed from the board whilst connected via USB.

G29 (auto-level) can only be run after a successful G28 (homing of all of the axes).

First thing to check is that the Axis is mechanically as level as possible. The distance between the hotend nozzle and all four corners of the platform should be as close as possible for the same z-height.

To do so, make sure that the gantry arm is as parallel as possible with the platform. You can check this by bringing the hotend to the front of the machine and bringing the nozzle down to the platform. Then, by turning the y-axis motor by hand (the one mounted on the gantry), move the hotend back away from the front of the machine. Check to make sure that the nozzle remains at the same height away from the bed. If it moves further away or digs in then your gantry is not level enough.

Auto Levelling will only compensate for a 3mm deviation.

Check the hotend is close enough to the platform when printing the first layer. The nozzle should be squishing the filament down.

In Cura reduce the first layer print speed to 25mm/s.

Make sure that the surface is free of any dust/grease - use an alcohol wipe to be sure.

Turning on the brim or raft setting in Cura will also help to create a strong first layer to print onto.

Ensure that there isn't any strong draft blowing over the printer that would cause the first layer to cool too quickly and pop off.

If you're still struggling you could try applying a layer of pritt stick (paper glue) or hair spray to the bed for better adhesion.

A number of things need to come together to eliminate any lead screw wobble.

Start by making sure that the gantry's linear guides are tight against the pillar. The guides should not be over tightened though, they should still allow for motion of the gantry. When rotating the eccentric guides to tighten against the pillar check that you are still able to move the gantry by rotating the lead screw.

Next is the positioning of the lead screw and motor shaft inside the coupling:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+06:+Gantry/56?lang=en#s624

Make sure that inside the coupling the lead screw and motor shaft are touching - there should be absolutely no gap.

Finally is the lead screw bracket and cap. The lead screw cap will need proper lubrication in order to be effective, the best in our opinion is dry bike chain lubricant (Teflon kind), but cooking oil (olive/vegetable) works well too.

The lead screw bracket needs to be installed as flat as possible, if installed at an angle it will cause z-wobble.The bracket also needs to be pressing down on the lead screw to prevent any vertical movement.

The linear guides, the coupling and bracket all need to be setup correctly, as outlines here, for the best results.

Checking:

Manually rotate the lead screw moving the gantry up and down, if there is any binding/bouncing of the gantry or stretching of the coupling then the bracket isn't pressed down on the lead screw enough or there is a gap between the lead screw and motor shaft inside the coupling.

In pronterface move the gantry up and down whilst looking at the gantry from the front of the printer, check to see if there's any side to side wobbling at the front end of the gantry, nearest the LCD display. If there is then either the lubricant is not effective enough or the bracket has been fixed at an angle.

Also remember that the lead screw itself wobbling is OK and expected, that wobble should however not translate over to the gantry arm and hence the print.

Finally, it's think it's worth mentioning that metal couplings are also available if anyone is still struggling with z-wobble and is wondering if any component itself could be upgraded. If you are considering this upgrade then we recommend the type that clamps onto the shaft, the correct size is 5x8.

Make sure to still follow these steps, even with a metal coupling.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000281764467.html?

1. Reduce printing temperature in Cura. You can also do this mid print via the LCD panel.
   
2. Check that you have the correct nozzle size selected in Cura. The nozzle size is etched into the side of the nozzle.
3. Reduce the extruder flow rate in Cura. You can also do this mid print via the LCD panel.