Help Centre

First check the thermistor connection at the board. Is it plugged in correctly and to the correct position. (Hotend thermistor goes to TH1 and the beds thermistor goes to TB - remember that polarity doesn't matter for thermistors).

Next try removing and reinstalling the offending thermistor from the bed or hotend.

When reinstalling the thermistor you will need to be very careful that the exposed end of the wiring is not being crossed or touching any of the metal on the bed or hotend - this will cause an error.

The screw that holds the thermistor to the block also shouldn't be on too tight as it can strip the wiring and cause it to short.

Also check that the thermistor cable isn't being pinched any where.

Try swapping the thermistor for the heated bed and hotend around, does the problem follow the the thermistor?

If so you may need to replace the thermistor.

Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end.

Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.

Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.

Make sure that you have the drivers installed:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+09:+Firmware/53?lang=en#s659

When installing the driver make sure you are running as administrator and can make the necessary changes to your PC.

This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here: 

http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_EXE.html

If the above does not work:

1. Unplug the end stops from the board and try connecting again.

2. Unplug all connections to the board, including the stepper drivers and try the connection again.

3. Try resetting (the red button on the centre of the board) with everything removed from the board whilst connected via USB.

G29 (auto-level) can only be run after a successful G28 (homing of all of the axes).

First thing to check is that the Axis is mechanically as level as possible. The distance between the hotend nozzle and all four corners of the platform should be as close as possible for the same z-height.

To do so, make sure that the gantry arm is as parallel as possible with the platform. You can check this by bringing the hotend to the front of the machine and bringing the nozzle down to the platform. Then, by turning the y-axis motor by hand (the one mounted on the gantry), move the hotend back away from the front of the machine. Check to make sure that the nozzle remains at the same height away from the bed. If it moves further away or digs in then your gantry is not level enough.

Auto Levelling will only compensate for a 3mm deviation.

At the back of the LCD display is a trimpot that can be turned to adjust the screen's contrast.

Check that the cables are installed the right way round, make sure they match the images in the build guide:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+01:+Base/50?lang=en#s574

You will likely see this error on the first boot, it is corrected by sending M502 followed by M500 in pronterface.

More info:

EEPROM is configurable memory stored on the control board.

M500 - Stores current settings.

M501 - Read current stored settings.

M502 - Reset setting from Firmware default.

If the offending axis still moves in pronterface then the TMC connection error can actually be ignored but should still be dealt with for completeness.

You will need to be powered on from the mains for the TMC2208's to work correctly - if you have the printer connected via USB you will need to disconnect, power by mains and then connect again.

Make sure that the TMC2208 drivers are installed the right way round (if installed incorrectly they will break - the kit includes one spare):

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+08:+Wiring/58?lang=en#s769

Double check the TMC drivers on the control board, there should be no jumpers installed underneath on the board but one jumper should be installed on the corresponding UART pins, see blue arrows:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+08:+Wiring/58#s769  

Whilst powered off remove and reinstall the offending driver and its corresponding UART jumper.

Make sure you have the latest version of the TMC library installed:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+09:+Firmware/53?lang=en#s658  

Double check that the installed TMC drivers are activated in the firmware:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+09:+Firmware/53?lang=en&permalink=1#s770  

If the offending axis itself moves OK (remember that the hotend needs to be above 170 degrees C for the Extruders to move) but the TMC connection error persists, you will need to run the affected driver/s in standalone mode, this essentially puts them into a “manual mode” where the trim-pot on the driver can be adjusted to increase/decrease the current to the motors, similar to the A4988 drivers. In standalone mode their functioning is still the same.

See following step for doing so (in this example the Y and E1 axis is having the connection error):

1.  In the stepper drivers’ section of the firmware (lines 680-695 in Configuration.h) for the Y and E1 axis replace "TMC2208" with TMC2208_STANDALONE, so it looks like this:

#define X_DRIVER_TYPE   TMC2208

#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE   TMC2208_STANDALONE

#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE   TMC2208

//#define X2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define Y2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define Z2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define Z3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define Z4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208

#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208_STANDALONE

//#define E2_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define E3_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define E4_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define E5_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define E6_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

//#define E7_DRIVER_TYPE A4988  

2.  Then, with the printer powered off, remove the corresponding UART jumpers for the axes marked as being standalone.   Then add three jumpers under the TMC drivers position as if it were an A4988 driver. See image here:

https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/makertech-3d/16woVuvaG5aYSICA.full

3.  Upload the firmware.  

4.  Connect with pronterface and check for errors, if you get the EEPROM error, send M502 followed by M500. The TMC connection error should have disappeared. Remember that you need to also be powered on from the mains, not just the USB.  

5.  In pronterface check the motion of all of the axes, if you find that the stand-alone axes are underpowered, there is a trim-pot on the driver itself that you can turn clockwise to increase the current and vice versa.  

Take a look at this step again, you'll likely find that the tabs need to be cut and the cables on the board side need to be flipped over.

Note, in particular the red cable, it needs to be on the same side when going into the terminals from the LCD to the board.

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+01:+Base/50?lang=en#s574

Check the hotend is close enough to the platform when printing the first layer. The nozzle should be squishing the filament down.

In Cura reduce the first layer print speed to 25mm/s.

Make sure that the surface is free of any dust/grease - use an alcohol wipe to be sure.

Turning on the brim or raft setting in Cura will also help to create a strong first layer to print onto.

Ensure that there isn't any strong draft blowing over the printer that would cause the first layer to cool too quickly and pop off.

If you're still struggling you could try applying a layer of pritt stick (paper glue) or hair spray to the bed for better adhesion.

A number of things need to come together to eliminate any lead screw wobble.

Start by making sure that the gantry's linear guides are tight against the pillar. The guides should not be over tightened though, they should still allow for motion of the gantry. When rotating the eccentric guides to tighten against the pillar check that you are still able to move the gantry by rotating the lead screw.

Next is the positioning of the lead screw and motor shaft inside the coupling:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+06:+Gantry/56?lang=en#s624

Make sure that inside the coupling the lead screw and motor shaft are touching - there should be absolutely no gap.

Finally is the lead screw bracket and cap. The lead screw cap will need proper lubrication in order to be effective, the best in our opinion is dry bike chain lubricant (Teflon kind), but cooking oil (olive/vegetable) works well too.

The lead screw bracket needs to be installed as flat as possible, if installed at an angle it will cause z-wobble.The bracket also needs to be pressing down on the lead screw to prevent any vertical movement.

The linear guides, the coupling and bracket all need to be setup correctly, as outlines here, for the best results.

Checking:

Manually rotate the lead screw moving the gantry up and down, if there is any binding/bouncing of the gantry or stretching of the coupling then the bracket isn't pressed down on the lead screw enough or there is a gap between the lead screw and motor shaft inside the coupling.

In pronterface move the gantry up and down whilst looking at the gantry from the front of the printer, check to see if there's any side to side wobbling at the front end of the gantry, nearest the LCD display. If there is then either the lubricant is not effective enough or the bracket has been fixed at an angle.

Also remember that the lead screw itself wobbling is OK and expected, that wobble should however not translate over to the gantry arm and hence the print.

Finally, it's think it's worth mentioning that metal couplings are also available if anyone is still struggling with z-wobble and is wondering if any component itself could be upgraded. If you are considering this upgrade then we recommend the type that clamps onto the shaft, the correct size is 5x8.

Make sure to still follow these steps, even with a metal coupling.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000281764467.html?

A hotend jam could be cause by a clogged nozzle, in which case the nozzle will need replacing.

1. Reduce printing temperature in Cura. You can also do this mid print via the LCD panel.
   
2. Check that you have the correct nozzle size selected in Cura. The nozzle size is etched into the side of the nozzle.
3. Reduce the extruder flow rate in Cura. You can also do this mid print via the LCD panel.

If what you printed is not the correct size check the travel distance of each axis individually.

Bring the nozzle down to the platform and mark on a piece of paper the point which the nozzle hovers over. Move the x-axis in pronterface. Mark again the position of the nozzle over the piece of paper. Check the that the two marked points are the same distance apart that you instructed the axis be moved.

Repeat this for the Y axis also.

For the Z-Axis use a ruler to measure the distance that the gantry rises.

If an axis is moving too little or too much:

1.  Check that under the stepper drivers the jumpers are installed correctly (or not installed if running TMC2208's)
2. Swap the driver for one that is working correctly - see if the problem jumps axis and replace the driver as necessary.
3. If the z-axis is stalling/jumping/not moving smoothly see the z-wobble article on this page.
4. Incase step values have been edited it might be worth resetting the EEPROM memory, do this by connecting with pronterface and sending M502 followed by M500.
   
5. Finally, although this shouldn't need to be done, is changing the steps/mm in the firmware for the axis in the configuration.h file. This is done as a last resort and it's likely something else that is causing the dimensional inaccuracy.

First thing to check is the pi cam itself, is it connected up correctly, are the cables inserted the right way round?

The camera module itself is seated onto the camera board by this very small connector, is that connector seated properly?

If you're happy that the hardware is all OK then it may just need activating in octopi - this can sometimes happen and the fix is fairly straight forward. Before starting make sure that octopi is up and running:

1. Download Putty for windows. https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html

2. Open Putty, enter in the ip address for octoprint in the "Host Name" box - you can find the ip from your router under "connected devices".

3. Connection type should be SSH.

4. A message might pop up, press yes.

5. Login as: pi

6. password: raspberry (you won't see anything being typed, that is normal, just hit enter when done)

7. type in "sudo raspi-config"

8. Use arrow keys to go to "interface options" and hit enter.

9. Hit enter on Camera and enable.

10. Use the right arrow key to finish and exit the config menu.

11. Enter "sudo reboot" to restart octopi. The camera should be working now.